Last Updated on November 3, 2023 by Catrina
Happy Candlemas (Candelaria)! I have a new recipe for tamales verdes with chicken coming your way! It is a tradition in Mexico to eat tamales on February 2nd, and I thought I would share this version that I have been working on for the last few weeks. I had hoped to be able to share this recipe with you a few days earlier so that you would have time to make these for Candlemas. But, I thought the recipe needed some final tweeks before sharing, so this is coming to you a bit later than expected.
Even if you can’t make these for February 2nd, this recipe makes a wonderful tamal all year round! This tamal has a spongy, fluffy texture, much less dense and compact than the black bean tamales that I make. And the chicken and salsa verde filling make this a perfect meal for breakfast, lunch, or dinner!
What is a tamal?
The word tamal (tamales is the plural form in Spanish) comes from the Nahuatl word tamalli, which means “wrapped”. This food preparation method has roots dating back to the pre-hispanic era where a corn-based dough (dough is masa in Spanish) was mixed with vegetables and meat, then wrapped in banana leaves or corn husks and steamed. The preparation in Mexico today remains relatively similar to these roots. However, the influence of other ingredients coming from immigrants has changed some of the fillings over time. In short, a tamal is a filling that is wrapped and then cooked.
There are a huge amount of regional variations of the tamal found throughout Mexico. Some estimate that the variety is close to 500 different kinds of tamales! When I took a look at my Larousse Diccionario Enciclopédico de la Gastronomía Mexicana authored by Ricardo Muñoz Zurita, his commentary on tamales spanned 23 pages. While there are many common tamales, like the tamales verdes with chicken that I share here, or others filled with pork, beef, mole or vegetables. There are also several less well-known varieties throughout Mexico. Iguana or ant larva (escamoles) tamales anyone?
There are even sweet tamales, filled with fruit, like strawberries or pineapple, that are eaten for dessert. So, as you can see, there are tamales to suit every taste!
Why do Mexicans eat tamales on February 2nd?
I am publishing this recipe just in time for Candlemas (Candelaria) on February 2nd, a day that Mexicans traditionally eat tamales. But why do Mexicans eat tamales on February 2nd and not some other food? I had the same question myself.
To answer this question, we need to go back, way back to pre-hispanic times. The Mexicas celebrated rituals to mark the beginning of the planting season in February. These rituals included preparing food made with corn, like tamales, as offerings to their gods.
When the Spanish conquered Mexico and Catholicism was introduced, ancient Mexican rituals mixed with Catholic customs to create new traditions. Candlemas on February 2nd is near the time when the Mexicas celebrated their planting rituals. Today, Mexicans have continued the ancient tradition of preparing and eating tamales on February 2nd, but now the custom is tied to the Catholic holiday of Candelmas.
Eating tamales on February 2nd is also tied to a custom here in Mexico that happens on January 6th, the day of the epiphany (or three kings’ day). On January 6th, families, and friends gather to share a rosca de reyes, a sweet, ring-shaped bread. The bread contains a figurine (or several) of the baby Jesus hidden inside. If your slice of the bread contains the baby Jesus, you are responsible for inviting your friends and family for tamales on February 2nd!
Tips for making tamales verdes with chicken
Break the process up
Making tamales can be a daunting task. But making tamales that require salsa and a meat filling like these tamales verdes with chicken can seem even more intimidating. Breaking up the steps into pieces can help make this task more manageable. When I can, I cook the chicken and make the salsa ahead of time. I usually cook chicken thighs with onion, garlic, and cilantro (like in my mole verde recipe) as the filler for this dish. The chicken is flavorful and tender. And as an added bonus, the cooking liquid can be used as the broth for making the masa. If you are really pressed for time though, you could use pre-cooked shredded chicken and store-bought broth.
When you make the chicken and salsa ahead of time, you can store it for a day or 2 in the fridge until you are ready to make the tamales. Have the filling at room temperature when you are ready to start the assembly.
You need more salt then you think
I made the mistake once of forgetting to salt my masa before making tamales. The result was bland and unpalatable. I ended up throwing away the whole batch, because, well, they were just that bad. Imagine, all of that hard work, in the trash! It was a frustrating and valuable lesson.
The thing is, as the tamales steam, the salt evaporates out of the masa. So not only do you need to make sure that the masa is salted, it needs to be a little on the salty side. I would highly suggest that you taste the masa once you have it prepared to check the salt level and err on the side of a bit saltier is better.
The fillings can be salted normally, to taste!
Have a few extra corn husks ready to go, just in case
You will need a few extra corn husks ready to go for 2 reasons.
The first reason is that sometimes the husks will have slight tears in them. I usually use the smaller pieces of corn husks to layer over any tears to ensure that the masa is tightly wrapped. Or, if you only have smaller husks, you may need to overlap two smaller husks to create a larger pocket for your filling.
The second, is that the quantity of tamales that you are able to make will vary depending on how full you fill them. In my experience, 2 pounds of masa will make somewhere between 12-15 tamales, about 5-6 inches in length. So having a few extra corn husks ready ensures that I can assemble all my tamales in one go.
If you soak too many husks, don’t worry. Just let them dry out and store them for your next batch of tamales!
Adjust the salsa and chicken to your liking
I like a saucy tamal and one that isn’t too stingy on the meat. I think the ratio of chicken, sauce, and masa is perfect for my tastes. But that doesn’t mean that you can’t adjust to your preferences.
One of the comments I got back on the first batch of tamales I tested for this recipe was that the sauce wasn’t spicy enough. I upped the chiles to please the Mexican preference for spicy salsa, and honestly, I was much happier with the spicier salsa.
My original batch had only 2 chile serranos and before I cooked them with the tomatillos, I had removed the seeds and veins. If you like a milder salsa, but still want the flavor of the chiles, this is a perfect alternative.
Additionally, I think 3 cups chicken (about 1/4 cup per tamal) is the right amount for this. But maybe you like your tamales even heartier. Add more chicken if you feel like this isn’t enough for your needs.
Take your time mixing the masa
Prepared masa for tamales should be light and fluffy. If the masa hasn’t been mixed thoroughly, the cooked masa will be denser and more compact. Using a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment for this process is best. I usually mix the lard for 5-10 minutes until it has lightened to almost a white color. I then mix the lard with all of the other ingredients for another 20-25 minutes, for a total mix time of about 30 minutes. This may seem excessive, but I have had the best results after mixing the masa for this amount of time.
To see if the masa is ready, some folks recommend taking a small ball of the masa and placing it in a glass filled with water. If the masa floats, they say the masa is ready and will be light and fluffy. I, personally, have found this method to be unreliable.
When I was in college, I lived with a Mexican family for a year. The first time I made tamales was with my Mexican host mom! So, I asked her about the float test and she told me that sometimes the dough never floats, even if it seems like you have mixed it for an eternity. I, therefore, prefer to go by how the masa looks and feels. The ingredients should be well blended. The masa should be wet, but not runny. It should hold its shape when scooped with a spoon and have a texture similar to buttercream.
How to assemble tamales verdes with chicken
Filling the corn husks
Once your masa is properly mixed, you are ready to fill the corn husks! Spoon a bit of the masa mixture into the corn husk towards the bottom curved part of the husk. Notice that there is a space between the bottom of the corn husk and where the masa mixture starts. You don’t want to place the masa too close to the edges of the husk, otherwise, it will be hard to fold the packet and the mixture could leak out. If you have any tears in the corn husks, use an extra piece of corn husk to patch the tear.
Next, spread the filling upwards slightly towards the pointed end of the corn husk. Add a scoop of the chicken and salsa mixture. Now you are ready to fold!
Folding the tamal
If you can make a burrito, you can make a tamal! Once you have the filling inside the corn husk, fold so the sides overlap the filling and the pointed part of the husk closes downwards. I then flip the tamal seam-side down to ensure the packets don’t open back up while I fill the rest of the husks.
Once all of the husks are filled, get a large pot ready for steaming. I use a tamalera, a pot specifically designed for making tamales. But don’t worry, these can steam in any pot with a steamer basket. Fill your pot with a generous amount of water, but make sure that the water level does not come above the steamer basket. You don’t want the tamales getting wet during the cooking process. Heat covered over high to a boil and then reduce the heat down to maintain a simmer. Place the tamales standing up with the folded part of the husk towards the bottom of the pot.
I hope you enjoy this recipe and try making your own homemade tamales! Many thanks to my lovely neighbors Julieta and Noemi for being my official taste-testers for this recipe!
This recipe was adapted from the following sources:
Diana Kennedy, Cocina Esencial de México
Rick Bayless, Basic Tamal Dough recipe
Rocio Castro, Guerrero Mexico
Tamales Verdes with Chicken
Ingredients
Filling
- ~2 lbs tomatillos ~950g
- 2 cloves garlic
- 3 serrano peppers (chiles) see notes
- 1 medium white onion
- 3 tbsp vegetable oil I use safflower
- 3 cups shredded chicken
- Salt to taste
Masa
- 2 lbs masa for tamales, at room temperature ~1 kg, See notes
- 1 1/4 cup lard at room temperature
- 2/3 cup chicken broth, at room temperature
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- Salt to taste See notes
For the assembly
- ~15 prepared dried corn husks for tamales See notes
Instructions
Filling
- Place tomatillos, chiles, onion, and garlic in a pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil covered, reduce heat and continue to simmer, partially covered, until tomatillos and chiles change from a vibrant green to a dull green color and the skins of the tomatillos begin to crack, about 13-15 minutes~2 lbs tomatillos, 2 cloves garlic, 3 serrano peppers (chiles), 1 medium white onion
- Discard the water and place the vegetables in a blender. Blend until smooth, add salt to taste. I usually have about 6 cups of salsa once blended.Salt to taste
- Heat oil in a large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat, until shimmering, 2-3 minutes3 tbsp vegetable oil
- Add ingredients from blender to the hot oil and fry gently. Continue to simmer until the sauce has reduced and thickened, about 15 minutes. Add chicken to the sauce and set aside.3 cups shredded chicken
Prepare the Masa and the Corn Husks
- Fill a sink or large bin with water. Place corn husks in water and submerge to cover completely. Allow corn husks to soak until pliable, about 15 minutes. Remove from water and shake any excess water from the husks before using.
- In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat lard on medium speed until it has lightened in color and texture, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary, 5-10 minutes1 1/4 cup lard at room temperature
- With the mixer still on medium speed, add in the baking powder and salt. Gradually, add in the masa, alternating with the chicken broth, beating until the ingredients are well mixed, 10-20 minutes. The dough should be light and fluffy, almost the texture of a buttercream frosting. It should not be runny and should hold its shape when scooped with a spoon. A lighter textured, well mixed masa will produce a fluffier tamal when cooked. See notes on salt.2 lbs masa for tamales, at room temperature, 2/3 cup chicken broth, at room temperature, 1 teaspoon baking powder, Salt to taste
Assembly
- Fill the tamal pot (vaporera) or a pot fitted with a steamer basket with water to just below the steamer basket and heat on high to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and continue simmering. See notes.
- Using a spoon, place ~1/3 cup masa mixture into the curved part of the corn husk and extend 1/2 to 2/3 of the way upwards towards the pointed ends of the husks. You will want to leave about 1/2-1 inch gap between the bottom and sides of the corn husk and the masa mixture.~15 prepared dried corn husks for tamales
- Spoon some of the chicken mixture on top of the masa.
- Fold the sides of the husk over to cover the filling completely and fold the pointed end of the husks downwards towards the curved part of the husk to create a packet. See photos for reference.
- Repeat previous 3 steps until all of the masa is gone
- Place the tamales standing upright with the folded part of the tamal towards the bottom of the pot in the steamer basket.
- Cover the pot with a lid and allow the tamales to steam for 1.5 hours, or until the masa is cooked through. See notes
- To eat, remove from the pot with tongs and carefully remove the corn husks. Enjoy!
Notes
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Corn husks are usually sold in packages in the Hispanic food aisle of the grocery store. For this recipe, you will need 12-15 large husks. I typically soak additional husks in case any of the husks have tears. You can then use smaller pieces placed on the inside or outside of the tamal to cover any tears and ensure that the masa mixture is completely covered. Any leftover husks can be dried and stored for future use.
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I use a wet masa ground for tamales for this recipe. It is not salted and it does not have lard added in. I have seen this type of masa available in the refrigerated section of Latino food markets in the US. Check the ingredients on any masa for tamales that you purchase. Some may already include lard and salt, which will mean you will need to adjust this recipe to remove those ingredients. If you are starting with cornflour like Maseca, you will need to add water to prepare the masa according to the package directions prior to starting.
- To make 2 lbs masa using masa harina (I used Maseca in my test), you will need 4 2/3 cups Maseca and 2 2/3 +1/2 cups warm water to yield 2 lbs 1.2 ounces of masa. Mix the ingredients by hand in a bowl until you form a cohesive dough. Please note that I have not tested the tamales using this masa. This note is to simply give you a conversion for how to yield 2 lbs of masa from masa harina (Maseca brand).
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My Mexican host mother used to say that the salt evaporated from the tamales during the steaming process. She always slightly over-salted her masa to compensate. In my experience this holds true. A masa that is salted perfectly prior to cooking, tends to be a bit bland once it is finished. I slightly over salt the masa to compensate. In this recipe, I find that 2 tablespoons of salt for 2 pounds masa work for me. You will want to add salt slowly and taste as you add the salt.
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You may need to add water to your pot during the cooking process, depending on how much water your pot can hold below the rack or steamer basket and how quickly that quantity evaporates. If you need to add water, pour water down the side of the pot to avoid getting the tamales too wet. A trick to know when you are low on water is to place a coin in the bottom of the pot. When the coin starts rattling, you know you are low on water.
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These tamales usually take me around 1.5 hours to cook through. I start checking for doneness after 1 hour. To check for doneness, remove a tamal from the pot and gently peel back the husk. The masa should feel soft, but not mushy and the husk should easily peel back from the filling. If the tamal is not done, re-wrap in the corn husk and place it back in the pot.
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I reheat these by steaming them on the stove. From the fridge, it should take 7-10 minutes to reheat all the way through or 30-35 minutes from frozen. Open and check them to make sure that they are heated all of the way through prior to consuming.
- I like the salsa in this recipe on the spicy side. But you can certainly adjust the spiciness to taste. Increase the number of chile peppers if you want an even spicier version. Or you can seed and devein the chiles prior to cooking for a milder version of salsa. You could even eliminate the chiles entirely if you wish.
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